For 24 hours, on the last Tuesday of January, the town of Lerwick goes more than a little mad. "There will be no postponement for weather". That's a defiant boast by Shetland's biggest fire festival, considering it's held in mid-winter on the same latitude as southern Greenland. But it's true: gales, sleet and snow have never yet stopped the Up Helly Aa guizers of Lerwick from burning their Viking galley - and then dancing the dawn away. On the evening of Up Helly Aa Day, over 800 heavily-disguised men form ranks in the darkened streets. On the stroke of 7.30pm, a signal rocket bursts over the Town Hall. The torches are lit, the band strikes up and the amazing, blazing procession begins, snaking half a mile astern of the Guizer Jarl, standing proudly at the helm of his doomed replica longship, or 'galley'.It takes half an hour for the Jarl's squad of burly Vikings to drag him to the burning site, through a crowd of four or five thousand spectators.The Jarl leaves his ship, to a crescendo of cheers. A bugle call sounds, and then the torches are hurled into the galley.As the inferno destroys four months' of painstaking work by the galley builders, the crowd sings 'The Norseman's Home'.









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